If you are starting from Chennai and would like to visit some old, interesting temples on the outskirts of Chennai, then a half-day trip or even a day trip around Tiruvallur would be ideal. We did a half day trip around Tiruvallur. Since we had already visited the primary deity of Tiruvallur, Veeraraghava Perumal temple earlier, we skipped it for this trip. Instead, decided to check out a couple of old temples around the region, starting from Tiruvalangadu.
REACHING THERE: Tiruvalangadu is located around 50 kms from Chennai and is located on the Tiruvallur-Arakonnam stretch. The road is good in parts and at the best decent for the remainder of the journey. The nearest rail heads are Tiruvallur and Arakonnam. Tiruvalangadu too has a railway station served by the EMU (more popularly called the electric trains) from Chennai.
TIRUVALANGADU, RATHINA SABHAI: Tiruvalangadu is one of the Pancha Sabhais of Lord Shiva, where he is said to have performed his cosmic dance. Tiruvalangadu is called the Rathina Sabhai (meaning Hall of Rubies/Jewels). This is regarded the first of Sabhais (not sure of the reasoning) and is here that Shiva performed his famous Oorthava Thandavam, one where he raises his left leg up facing the sky. The reasoning behind the dance has an interesting history behind it.
To keep the story short, once there was a duel between Lord Shiva and Lordess Sakthi on who is superior. It was decided the verdict for the same would be decided based on a dance competition. During the dance, Shiva's left ear ring fell on the ground. Knowing that if the lord picks up the ring by hand, the competition would come to a close and Sakthi would be pronounced the winner, Lord Shiva picked up the ear ring from his left leg and wears it on the ear using his leg, thus signifying the reasoning behind the famous Oorthava Thandavam posture.
Rathina Sabhai, being the dance floor, has a separate sanctum within the temple. Although not strictly adorned with jewels, the place definitely carries a mystic feel. The primary deity here is known by Vadaranyeswarar. The Lordess is known by the name Vandarkuzhali (meaning one thronged by bees, like a flower). It is also believed that if one listens closely, one could hear the sound of bees within the sanctum.
The visit to the temple should ideally start with the Kali sanctum located in the outer boundary of the main temple. One needs to make a trip around the temple on the outside to reach the Kali temple. Here one finds the Lordess in a dancing posture, signifying again the dance competition that happened at this historic venue.
Tirvalangadu is also one of the five suyambu (meaning self-manifested) Shiva temples in Tamil Nadu associated with a kind of forest. Tiruvalangadu is associated with Banyan forest. In fact, the name Tiruvalangadu in Tamil essentially means Lord of the Banyan forest. However, there is hardly any banyan tree left in the region. The only one I could spot was the Sthala viruksha of the temple. It was quite an expansive, strong tree.
Despite the temple being famous and rich in history, the temple appears to receive limited patronage. In fact, the approach roads are not great, sign boards limited and the huge temple had quite a deserted look even on a Sunday. That was bit surprising, given its relative proximity to Chennai.
THIRUPASOOR: Our next halt was Thirupasoor. The temple is again a very ancient one and is believed to have been constructed by Karikala Chozhan, belonging to the early Chola dynasty. The temple has the distinction of having been sung by three of the four primary poets associated with Shiva temples. The temple is located on the main road that connects Tiruvallur to Tiuvalangadu. It is very unlikely you would miss this temple en route.
As one enters the temple, one could easily sense the strong history the temple represents and how it has stood the test of times. The temple is a reasonably big one and the lord here is known by the name Vaaseswarar. The Lordess is known by Than Kadhali (meaning my lover). The story being the lord was so awe-struck by the beauty of the Lordess that he proclaimed to the world that she is his lady love.
Thirupasoor is also one of the five Shiva temples associated with a forest. This is supposed to be a temple to have emerged within a Bamboo forest. Like in Thiruvalangadu, here too the only Bamboo tree was inside the temple. Wonder how the place would have been, had it still been a Bamboo forest. One interesting facet about the temple is the Navagraha sanctum. One would never find such wide spaced Navagrahas in any other temple. The temple walls around the Shiva sanctum are located with numerous inscriptions. They appear to be badly maintained and makes me wonder whether there is some untold history hidden there.
KAKALOOR HANUMAN TEMPLE: This is a relatively small temple around Tiruvallur, nevertheless a powerful one. The Hanuman deity here is a suyambu and is believed to be over 500 years old. The place can be reached by taking a sub-route from Tiruvallur. The temple was constructed by one of the disciples of Shri Raghavendra. The deity is relatively large in size with clear features. On one hand, Lord Hanuman is see here holding a flower.
TIRUVALLUR PANCHA MUKHA ANJANEYA TEMPLE: Away from an historic circuit of temples, this is one of the modern temples in Tiruvallur. The Viswaroopa Pancha Mukha Anjaneya statue at over 40 feet stands tall. The statue is made of green granite and very impressive. The temple is privately maintained and when we visited, the sanctum construction was still on. Although there were adequate sign boards leading to the temple,the approach roads were in real bad state. At one point, we even decided to make a return trip without visiting the temple. However, the sight of Lord Hanuman made us forget the strain taken.
PUTLUR ANGALAPARAMESWARI TEMPLE: This was like the best reserved for the last. Putlur is a small village locted on the Chennai- Tiruvallur route. The place also has a railway station. Putlur, as the name signifies, relates to Puthu, a termite made structure associated with abode for snakes and regarded sacred in Hindu religion. Here the Lordess herself resides in the form of puthu and not as an idol. The legend being that Lordess Sakthi was tired and wanted some water. While Lord Shiva was away to get water, the Lordess rested herself lying down resting on her arms. The puthu as it stands today, resembles such a posture of a pregnant lady and definitely makes for an interesting visit.
SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: The best way to schedule your trip is to plan it as half day trip from Chennai. Start early in the day, say by 6AM from Chennai and you should be able to complete visit to all the temples by 12PM. If its your first visit to the region, then you should definitely make a visit to Veeraraghava Perumal temple as well, being one of the 108 divya desams. Further, you could also consider visiting Hirudayaleeswarar temple and Bhakthavatchala Perumal temples at Tiruninravur, en route to Tiruvallur from Chennai. Tiruninravur is also a rail head in that route.