Patan Stepwell - Epitome of Indian Craftsmanship

Moving away from Tamil Nadu, in this post I wish to discuss about Patan, a small town in Gujarat, India. The place does not not boast of great infrastructure nor it is termed a must visit destination in tourist itineraries. Yet, this place boasts of Rani-ki-Vav (Queen's well) that is undoubtedly among the finest examples of Indian craftsmanship.

STEPWELLS IN GUJARAT: Vavs or stepwells are quite unique to western India, located predominantly in Gujarat and Rajasthan. A stepwell is basically a well where one has to descend several steps to fetch water. Apart from providing water, the stepwells also served as a place of leisure for the royal families. When ever the summer heat used to be scorching, it is believed that kings and queens used to spend a few hours chilling out at the stepwells. Stepwells could be in various shapes (circular, rectangular, oval) and could have several tiers. Tiers largely signify the depth of the step-well. As one descends each tier, one can easily feel the sudden drop in temperature and things turning cooler. The walls of most of these stepwells were also adorned with wonderful sculptures to help the royal family members spend time admiring the work of art. Gujarat has hundreds of stepwells of which the one in Patan called Rani-ki-vav is regarded the largest.

REACHING THERE: Patan is located at a distance of around 110 kms from Ahmedabad, the most prominent city of Gujarat. The best means to reach Patan is by road. The road from Ahmedabad to Patan is well-laid and one can have a comfortable ride. On reaching Patan, locals should be able to easily guide you to the step-well. There are also signboards placed en route for your convenience.

HISTORY: For those interested, this stepwell is said to have been constructed under the Solanki dynasty and is said to date back to the 11th century AD. The well has seen some testing times and part of it stands damaged. The stepwell is now maintained by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). They have undertaken maintenance work and ensured whatever remains is well-protected. It also stands among the tentative list of UNESCO world heritage sites.

RANI-KI-VAV: Rani-ki-vav is a 7-tier structure and arguably one of the biggest stepwells in the country. From afar, the place is hardly appealing. It even looks a bit dilapidated. However, as one moves closer and closer to the structure one is sure to have a sudden change of heart and as one starts descending the well, one is bound to get lost in great architectural splendour.

The walls in each of the tiers are filled with amazing sculptures. It is always tough to choose when you have too many options. Likewise, when the entire wall is filled with wonderful carvings, you are just not sure where to begin and what to observe. Only four of the seven tiers were accessible when I visited the well, but still it was just too many sculptures to sight at one go.

I would notice something interesting and as I try and come to terms with it, my friend would point me to something more interesting, an other friend to an even better spectacle while other fellow tourists would be marvelling at a totally different piece of art. This kept going on for hours and I was just not able to say, I'm done. Finally, it was the fading sunlight that eventually forced me to move out of the place.

There are several sculptures dedicated to Lord Vishnu and his dasavatars. There are also sculptures of other gods, warriors, kings and queens. Interestingly, there are also some stone carvings associated with South India like Lord Ranganathar from Srirangam in Tamil Nadu. Apart from real-life sculptures, there are also some very fascinating designs carved out of stones that carry their own charm. As I looked at the enormity of the architectural work, I kept wondering how many sculptors would have been involved in this mammoth exercise and how long would this have taken.

A truly breath-taking experience that I would cherish all my life.

ADDITIONAL NEAR-BY VISIT: If you visit Patan, you should definitely make a visit to the Patola silk making unit. Patola silk materials are one of the finest hand-woven silk materials of the country. One Patola silk saree is said to take anywhere between 3 to 6 months to make. It is said that only two families still are aware of the exact know-hows of making it and previous attempts to replicate the process using machinery have failed to yield the desired quality. The unit members are very friendly and they take you through the entire production process. It is a nice experience to familiarise with one of the oldest arts of the country.

SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: A trip to Patan is best combined with a trip to the Motera sun temple, which is along the way as one proceeds from Ahmedabad. The sun temple is an other piece of architectural wonder and is very well maintained. The temple pond in front of the temple is also a great attraction with amazing sculptures. For those, who may not be able to make it to Patan and are keen to visit a stepwell, you could visit the Adalaj stepwell in Ahmedabad. It is a four-tier well and is again (sorry for being repetitive, but truly deserving) a great architectural marvel.