Around Mysore - Nanjangud and Somnathpur

A couple of interesting places to visit around Mysore, for those who are making their nth trip to Mysore, n not being equal to 1. I am sure the first trip is always reserved for the palace, Srirangapatna and Chamundeswari temple - rightfully so. If you are done with the routine visits, then a couple of places worth checking out are Nanjangud and Somnathpur.

NANJANGUD: Nanjangud Sri Kanteswara temple is dedicated to lord Shiva. It is located at a distance of about 25 kms from Mysore. It is located on the banks of river Kabini, one of the tributaries of Kaveri. Nanjangud also has a rail head.

The best part of the temple is its proximity to the river bank. When the river is in full flow, like the time I had been there in August, it is a wonderful sight. Pilgrims throng the temple after taking a holy dip in the river, which in itself is a very pleasant experience. No great facility for a dress change though. We need to adjust with some make-shift arrangements.

Apart from taking a dip in the river, one could also go boating on the river in country made boats, Parisal. That again has its own charm. Taking a ride through the small, but beautiful, bamboo grooves in Parisal was one of the memorable experiences of my life.

The temple in itself is quite a massive structure with a 7-tier temple tower greeting you at the entrance. Sandstone colour of the temple tower adds its own touch of beauty to the structure. The temple compound walls are also wonderfully structured with fascinating carvings, both inside as well as outside the temple. The Primary lord, Nanjundeswarar, signifies Shiva who drank poison for the benefit of the world.

The place is considered to be a very sacred one and is revered as Dakshina Kasi. Apart from Shiva, the temple houses sanctums for lordess Parvati and Vishnu among others. There are innumerable wonderfully carved sculptures adorning the temple. There is also a section on sculptures of lord Shiva in various forms, which again speaks volume on Indian craftsmanship. Outside the temple one would also find a huge statue of Shiva in human form, in a sitting posture. The statue, although a recently established one, adds its own touch of sanctity and religious fervour to the atmosphere.

Near-by Nanjangud one could also find decent eating options.

SOMNATHPUR: Quite in contrast to Nanjangud, is Somnathpur or Somnathpura. It used to be a fully functional temple in the good old days, but it is now restricted to tourist interest. Built during the Hoysala period, it is the less known relative of Belur and Halebid temples. In fact, the structure of Somnathpura is quite similar to Halebid, which is so very unique to the Hoysala architecture. This temple too is dedicated toChennakesava. The temple is under the maintenance of Archealogical Survey of India (ASI) and is reasonably well-maintained. It is located at a distance of about 35kms from Mysore in the route to Bannur.

The temple has faced limited destruction compared to Belur and Halebid and hence offers more splendour for the eyes. Words are quite limited to express the beauty of the place. If you are one fascinated by history, architecture and sculptures, then Somnathpur should be definitely on your agenda of places to visit. Such is the treasure trove of sculptures and wall carvings here.

Inside the main temple, you would find three sanctums, dedicated to Kesava, Janardhana and Venugopala. Each of the sanctum has an elaborate entrance with intricate carvings that you could just adore for hours. Each of the pillars inside is uniquely carved and you are left wondering how did they manage to construct such wonders. The layered stone dome that resembles a chandelier beats the pillars in its own way. Unfortunately, the inner sanctums are not well-lit preventing one from taking decent pics.

While you relish the beauty of the inner sanctum and are left awe-stuck, the carvings on the outer wall transport you to a totally different world. You are sure to stretch the memory of your camera, just going on a clicking rampage. Even after that, you are likely to feel whether you have made full justice to the place by clicking enough pics. No camera or camcorder can amply capture what is on display. Probably your eyes are the best possible camera and your brain the best storage medium of all these memories.

One could spend several minutes just adoring the beauty of one sculpture and there are thousands and thousands of them lined all across the walls. Where do we start and where do we end? Well this is the question you will keep asking yourself and probably pass the blame on available time.

Sculptures are presented in three layers. To put very simply, the lower section with innumerable small ones, the middle section with reasonably big ones and the top (vimana) section with its own set of decorations. Leaving aside the main portion of the primary sculptures, one could be left wondering even at the beauty of the simple niceties that adorn these sculptures. Be it the tools on hands of the lords or the umbrella like covering above the head of each lord or the intricacies of leaves in a sculpted tree. The list is endless. One has to view it in person to rejoice it all. My words and pics are only like a small drop in a ocean of architectural treasure trove. Be there to check it out yourself.

NEAR-BY TEMPLES TO VISIT: Apart from Nanjagud and Somnathpur, if you are covering Mysore from Bangalore, then a couple of places you could cover en-route are Maddur and Mallur. Maddur is famous for its vadas and you should definitely try them when you are there. It is located at almost half way between Bangalore (Bengaluru) and Mysore. This apart, Maddur has an Ugra Narasimhar temple where Narasimha is in a state of anger and is seen here in the form of killing the demon Hiranyakashyap. There is a small Varadaraja Perumal temple near-by where the main statue is about 12 ft tall and is a divine sight.

Mallur or Dodda Mallur has a temple for lord Rama in the name of Aprameya. It is at a distance of about 50 kms from Bangalore. It is quite an old and historically recognised temple. Apart from the primary lord, the temple is more famous for Navneet Krishna. In fact, more people now know the temple only by this name. The most interesting aspect of the Navneet Krishna here is that it is in the posture of a child crawling. We have seen pictures of the same several number of times. But, to find statue of Krishna as a crawling child in a stone form is quite unique and you could catch the same here.

Temples in and around Salem - Part III

In this third part of the series on Temples around Salem, I would like to cover temples along the Salem-Tiruchengode route. You can look at Part I of the series at http://travelwithguru.blogspot.com/2011/04/temples-in-and-around-salem-part-ii.html and part 2 of the series at http://travelwithguru.blogspot.com/2011/04/temples-in-and-around-salem-part-ii.html

Apart from Tiruchengode Arthanareeswarar temple, most of the temples along this route are quite small, but some have significant history backing it. Tiruchengode is about 40 kms from Salem. It is well connected through the National Highway and hence commuting is easy.

1. Tiruchengode Kailasanathar Temple: Before visiting the main Tiruchengode hill top temple, one could visit the Kailasanathar temple located at the foot hill. It is a reasonably spacious temple and carries sanctums for gods and goddesses that you generally associate with a Shiva temple. The temple is well maintained and the entrance door carvings are a great treat for the eyes.

2. Tiruchengode Arthanareeswarar Temple: Undoubtedly, the main attraction in this region. The historically famous Arthanareeswarar temple on hill top. It is believed the temple was constructed during 2nd century AD. So, technically, it is over 2000 years old. It is amazing to realise such a wonderful temple having been constructed in that age. Every pillar and corner of the temple speaks volumes of the wonderful craftsmanship that prevailed in the region. A look above and the ceilings are filled with wonderful carvings.

Arthanareeswarar represents union of Lord Shiva and Lordess Parvathi in one human form. The primary statue of the god is said to have been made out of Nava Bhashan, a material that is said to have curative and anti-ageing properties. It is indeed sad that over several centuries people have scrapped out the Nava Bhashan from the idol, wanting to benefit from its medical properties. As a result, the idol looks to be in quite a dilapidated state. One could still make out the broad framework of the idol, but to view the statue in a bad state is disturbing.
There is also a sanctum for lord Muruga, in the name of Sengootu velavar, whose statue is also in the same state as Arthanareeswarar having been made of the same Nava Bhashan. There is also a separate sanctum for lord Vishnu here, assuming the name of Adhi Kesava Perumal. The premise also holds a huge puthu, probably among the biggest I have seen.

It is only recently that a road has been laid through the hill for devotees to reach the temple by vehicle. The road through the hill goes in a slightly round-about fashion, but is definitely worth the experience. The view of the Tiruchengode town and nearby hills from the temple premise is also a great spectacle.

3. Kalipatti Kandhaswamy Temple: On the way back to Salem from Tiruchengode, you could cover a few temples. First among them is a famous Murugan temple at Kalipatti, about 25 kms from Tiruchengode. The temple is backed by significant history and is said to have been one of the key contenders for Arupadai Veedu Murugan shrines. Here, instead of the Vibhooti (holy ash), devotees are given black ash made of sugarcane. This is supposed to have medicinal properties and has even historically supposedly been used for snake bites.

4. Ariyanoor 1008 Linga Temple: This is a modern temple in Ariyanoor, less than 10 kms from Kalipatti. The 1008 lingas are installed all along the way to a small hillock. Each of the lingas carry an unique name too. Once you reach the top of the hillock, there is a big Ganapathi statue to welcome you. The view from there is extremely scenic with coconut and banyan groves. There are also separate sanctums here for each of the Arupadai Veedu Murugan temples. The statues here are pretty much the replica of the original.

Each of the 1008 lingas are sheltered by individual roofing that makes it really a wonderful sight. There is a huge separate sanctum for the primary linga called Arunachaleswarar. To fully justify the grand construction around, the primary linga is really huge in proportion make it an awesome spectacle. There is also a separate sanctum for Lord Anjaneya in the premise.

5. Uthama Cholapuram Siva Temple: Just a km from Ariyanoor is the famous historic Siva temple at Uthama Cholapuram. Here, the lord assumes the name of Karabureswarar and is said to have emerged suyambu. The temple is said to be over 1200 years old. It is believed that the famous Tamil poet Aavaiyar is said to have presided over the marriage of Angavai and Sangavai, the two daughters of King Pari, extensively covered in Tamil history. In fact, there is a life-size statue of Aavaiyar placed at the entrance of the temple. A nice way to complete a temple tour in and around Salem.

Thirukazhukundram - Eagle Temple near Chennai

Recently I had an opportunity to visit the historic Thirukazhukundram temple. The temple is located near Chengalpet, about 60kms from Chennai. It is a temple located on a hill top. Apart from a great dharshan of lord Shiva, a visit to the temple offers a very refreshing experience with cool breeze and amazing locales, so pleasing to the eyes.

BRIEF HISTORY: The temple has a nice history backing it. Simply put, two sages on account of a curse get born as eagles (kazgugu in Tamil) on earth. They were destined to be on earth until all their sins were absolved and they attained nirvana. These eagles have historically been found to have hovered around the temple here and in fact they come to a specified location on the hill near the temple. It's been a traditional practice to feed these eagles at around noon every day. The observation of eagles have stopped in recent years. However, one could now have a sight of the eagle feeding point. This also explains the name of the temple and the village below. Thirukazhukundam literally stands for hill temple of the eagles.

REACHING THERE: The temple can be reached from Chennai by two routes. One could come via Tambaram and Chengalpet. If one comes in by this route, then one needs to get into Chengalpet town (avoid the by-pass road) and take a left near at a prominent junction (junction has a statue of Rajiv Gandhi). Thirukazhukundram is about 15 kms from the junction. Alternatively, one could come via Mahabalipuram. The temple is also around 15kms from Mahabalipuram. The nearest rail head would be Chengalpet.

FLIGHT OF STEPS: The hill-temple is open from 9AM to 12PM and then from 4PM to 6PM. To reach the temple, one needs to climb a series of 500+ steps. However, one need not panic about the number of steps. Each step is relatively small and well-laid. Further, there are benches put up along the way for pilgrims to take rest and climb the stairs in phases. The stair gate opens at 8:30AM in the mornings. It would be a god idea to reach the temple by around 9-9:30AM, as there could be delays in opening the gate.

MONKEYS GALORE: Like any other hill temple, the hill is laden with monkeys. So, one needs to be careful in terms of what they carry with them. Avoid taking any eatables openly in your hands. The monkeys are after any objects in plastic covers. So, avoid carrying any item in plastic covers openly. Also, avoid carrying water bottles, if possible. Monkeys do come after such bottles to quench their thirst. Although it's a great sight to see monkeys feeding themselves with the bottles, it is better to avoid them. Also, for those who are a touch afraid with monkeys around, it would be advisable to carry a stick with you.

VEDAGIRISWARAR: At the hill top is a temple for lord Shiva, assuming the title Vedagiriswarar, meaning the protector of vedas. The temple tower has a more rounded structure, similar to North Indian temples rather than the standard pyramid structure that we see across South India. The shiva linga in the temple is seen decorated with flowers and ornaments that would quickly remind one of Thiruvannamalai. With wonderful decorations and with oil lamps lit all around the karpagraham (sanctum), the linga is a very pleasant sight.

I am sure you would forget all aches in your muscle, having climbed 500-odd steps, the moment you witness the god in all the glory. The mere sight carries an amazing vibe that makes you feel fulfilled. You would definitely feel that all the effort was definitely a great worth. Behind the linga, one could see the statues of Somaskandar (Lord Shiva, Lordess Parvathy and Lord Muruga as a child) engraved on the wall. One interesting aspect of the temple is the fact that one would not observe the statue of Nandhi in front of the main linga as in all Shiva temples. In that sense, one could have a more direct face-to-face dharshan of the lord here. Apart from this, the temple also hosts statues of Ganapathy, Muruga and Lordess Sokka Nayaki.

Having had a fulfilling Dharshan, one could enjoy the cool breeze and amazing views the hill top has on offer. One could have a great view of paddy fields all the way till the horizon, the bustling Chengalpet town below and several water bodies that drain the region. The most interesting of them is a large temple tank called Sangu (conch) Theertham. The temple tank is clearly one of the biggest I have ever seen.

The way down from the hills is through a different set of stairs. On this route, one would find the Eagle feeding point as well as a couple of Shiv Lingas. There is also a small cave temple en route, but it remains closed. One could see wonderful sculptures carved inside the caves, although most of them appear to have worn down over time. The descent also offers better view of the town and the Sangu Theertham.

THIRUPARASUNDARI TEMPLE: There is a big temple located near the foot of the hill dedicated to Lordess Thirupurasundari Amman. The temple towers can in fact be viewed from the Vedagiriswarar Temple. This again would remind one of Thiruvannamalai, given the temple towers on all four sides of the temple compound. The temple towers are quite a tall structure with each of them having at least 7 tiers.

A small Shiva linga is also housed within this temple by the name Bhaktavatsaleswarar. This temple is quite an historic one housing several sanctums including one for lord Muruga. The main sanctum is dedicated to Lordess Thirupurasundari Amman. On the inner walls of the sanctum, one would find Abirami Sthothra mala engraved in marble. The temple also boasts of a huge pond, named after Nandhi, called the Nandhi Theertham. The pond is said to have curative properties.

ADDITIONAL NEAR-BY VISITS: Interested pilgrims could also visit Rudhrakoteswarar temple located within the town. This is a small temple dedicated to lord Shiva and a visit to this temple is said to be equivalent to performing penance with 1000 rudrakshas. One needs to take the straight road from Thirupurasundari Amman temple towards the Sangu Theertham and take a right turn there to reach the Rudhrakoteswarar temple.

SCHEDULING YOUR VISIT: You could possibly start from Chennai, reach Thirukazhukundram via Chengalpet, complete the dharshan of the three temples, spend the afternoon (when all temples are closed between 12Pm-4PM) at Mahabalipuram and then push for a couple more Vishnu temples along the route, namely Thirukadalmallai (in Mahabalipuram itself) and Thiruvidanthai (on the way back to chennai). In fact, both these temples are among the 108 Divya Desam temples.

In Thirukadalmallai, one would have a Dharshan of Sthala Sayana Perumal, where Lord Vishnu is seen in a reclining position. The uniqueness of this temple is that, unlike other places where the lord is in a reclined position on Adi Seshan (the snake), here he is found lying down on the floor. The lordess of the temple is called Nila Mangai, meaning lordess of the land. This temple is said to have been constructed as a pallava king feared the sea could possibly erode the sea shore temple in Mahabalipuram and hence wanted to construct a temple slightly away from the sea.

In Thiruvidanthai, one could have a dharshan of Nithya Kalyana Perumal, where the lord is seen holding the beloved lordess on his lap. The lordess here is known by the name Komathivalli Thayar. Both the lord and the lordess here are seen here in kalyana kolam (marriage costume). Alternatively, apart from these two temples one could also visit the famous Muruga temple Thiruporur, where the lord is known by the name Kandhasamy.

Temples in and around Madurai

I was on a trip to Madurai recently. This was just my first trip to Madurai and was long overdue. It was a two-and-half day trip, covering Madurai and Theni. The rain threat was always around and even before we started, I was busy praying rain should not play spoilsport. Luckily, it stayed away and allowed us the luxury of covering the various temples as planned.

My first halt was undoubtedly at the Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple. I have seen enough photos of the temple tower, tank and the goddess. Yet, the sight of these in person, left me spell bound. The intricate work on the temple towers, in specific, was literally out of the world. No surprise, the place was in contention for the wonders of the world. I am not going to verbally express my thoughts on the temple here, for partly it is not going to be justified and partly because there is already enough material on this on the web. So, let me share my thoughts on what other possible temples you can explore in and around Madurai.

1. KOODAL AZHAGAR TEMPLE: This temple is located right at the heart of the city and close to the Periyar bus stand. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is regarded as one of the 108 sacred Vishnu Temples in India (Divya Desam). The temple tower is a beautiful structure and unlike a typical pyramid structure, has a slightly more circular dome-like structure, that adds to the beauty. It's a relatively small temple and the primary lord here is known by the name Koodal Azhagar. Here, the lord is seen in a sitting posture with his consorts. One interesting aspect of the temple, which even some of the locals are not aware of, is that apart from the primary god, Koodal Azhagar, two other lords, namely Suryanarayanan and Seerabdhi Narayanar reside in this temple. The former is in standing posture and the latter in a reclined posture. The sanctums are located in two floors above Koodal Azhagar, thus making this temple a 3-tier structure, with each lord residing one above the other. This makes the temple really unique and worth a visit.

2. IMMAIILUM NANMAI THARUM SIVAN TEMPLE: This temple located at a walking distance from Koodal Azhagar temple has a very fascinating name. The name suggests that the lord is the protector across all issues and across all births. This historic temple dedicated to Lord Shiva has a very pious feel about it and makes for a quick visit.

3. TIRUPARANKUNDRAM: The famed Murugan temple is located at about 8kms from Madurai. It is one of the six primary abodes of Lord Muruga. This is the place where Muruga is supposed to have married Deivanai. This is a rock-cut temple where sanctums have been carved out of rocks. The interesting aspect of the temple is that one gets to have a darshan of five sanctums from a single stretch. The sanctums of Lord Shiva, Vishnu, Ganapathy, Muruga (with Deivanai) and Lordess Durga are placed just next to each other. The idols are quite large in size allowing for a more fulfilling dharshan for devotees.

4. NAGASAI TEMPLE: This is a Shirdi Sai Baba temple located enroute to Tiruparankundram. This is one of the earliest Sai temples in the country having been founded in 1943. The current statue however is a much newer one. The sai temple is well maintained and activities are carried out as in any Sai Baba temple across the world. You could probably close your day with a trip to the Sai Baba temple, where you can join the Bhajans and the mangala aarthi is taken at 08:00PM.

5. KURUVITHURAI GURU TEMPLE: This is a temple dedicated to Lord Guru/Dhakshinamoorthy. The temple is located about 25 kms North-west of Madurai and is about 8 kms from a place called Cholavandhan. The primary deity of the temple is actually Lord Vishnu (in a tall, standing posture). However, the temple is famous as Lord Guru's shrine. In fact, Lord Guru and Sakkarathazhwar are seen together in a single shrine and they are aid to have emerged Suyambu (on their own at this place). The beautiful stream that runs besides the temple adds to the beauty of the trip.

6. EDAGANATHAR TEMPLE: This Lord Shiva temple is located at Cholavandhan and can be combined with a trip to Kuruvithurai. In fact, the entry arch to the temple is relatively small and is on the road that leads to Kuruvithurai that one could miss it. However, the temple by itself is quite large in size and carries a mystic feel to it. The temple has a strong history and is said to have emerged as a symbol of saivism winning over jainism when there was a discussion on which was a superior religion. Leaving the duel aside the temple is definitely worth a visit for a wonderful spiritual feel it offers.

7. KALLAZHAGAR TEMPLE: This is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is located about 20 kms north of Madurai. Similar to Koodal Azhagar temple, Kallazhagar temple is also considered one of the 108 divine Vishnu temples of India. Here, the primary deity Kallazhagar is seen in a standing posture. Kallazhagar is considered the brother of Lordess Meenakshi, who is said to have offered Lordess Meenakshi's hands in marriage to Lord Shiva (Sundareswarar). The temple tower is an astounding structure with wonderful sculptural work. The temple corridor pillars are also very intricately carved and is definitely worth exploring.

8. PAZHAMUDHIR CHOLAI: This is one of the six primary abodes of Lord Muruga, similar to Tiruparankundram. This is the abode where Lord Muruga seems to have shown himself in front of the famous Tamil lady poet Avvaiyar. This is a reatively small temple but with significant history. The temple is located about 4 kms from Kallazhagar temple. In fact, Kallazhagar temple is located at the foothill, while Pazhamudhir Cholai is slightly uphill.

9. NOOBURA GANGAI: If you move further uphill from Pazhamudhir Cholai, you would find Noobura Gangai. Not many who visit Pazhamudhir Cholai temple is even aware of Noobura Gangai. After travelling a km uphill from Pazhamudhir Cholai, one needs to walk about 60 steps to reach Rakkai Amman temple. From the foot of the Lordess (the rock beneath the statue), there is a natural spring that gets generated. Interested could have a quick bath as well in wonderful natural spring, although the set up is not great for having a proper bath. However, a look at the spurt in flow of clean, natural water is definitely worth a visit.

10. NARASINGAM: As you move from Noobura Gangai back to Madurai, one could make a visit to Narasingam. The temple located at an interesting set up is located just below a mountain range called Yanamalai (meaning Elephant hill, as it represents a sitting elephant). There is a huge lotus pond just outside the temple. The temple, as the name of the village indicates, is dedicated to Lord Narasimha, one of the forms of lord Vishnu. Narasimha is seen in a sitting posture here and is carved out of a rock in a small cave. outside is a large statue of the goddess. Plans are on to give a gold plating to the temple gopuram.

11. THIRUMOHUR: This is again one of the 108 sacred Vishnu temples of India. The temple is also strongly revered as the shrine for Chakkarathazhwar. The temple is an ancient one and also houses separate sanctum for Srirangam Ranganathar and Hanuman. The temple is located between Narasingam and Madurai.

12. THIRUVATHAVUR: This is an ancient Shiva temple located between Thirumohur and Madurai. So, it makes a nice finish to your Madurai trip and gets you back to Madurai. The place is also the birth place of Manikavasagar, the great Saivite poet.

SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: Madurai is about 450 kms from Chennai and is well connected by train and air. One needs to spend at least two days to explore these temples well apart from the Madurai Meenakshi Amman temple. Also, note that all these temples are closed in the after noon between 12PM and 4PM. So, one should plan the schedule of visits accordingly and use the noon time for covering the distance.

Have a great trip in this temple city!!!

Krishnapuram - Interesting Venkateswara temple near Tirunelveli

Through this post, I introduce you to a small village called Krishnapuram located in South Tamil Nadu. Krishnapuram, the name, stands for the land of Krishna. Accordingly, the primary temple of the place belongs to Lord Vishnu. The primary temple deities here share the same names as Tirupati. The temple, although not large in size, is definitely worth a visit for some interesting wonders it offers.

REACHING THERE: Krishnapuram is located near Tirunelveli in South Tamil Nadu. The village is located en route to Tiruchendur, from Tirunelveli and hence could easily fit into your tour itinerary. The nearest town would be Tirunelveli, at a distance of just about 10kms. The nearest rail head would also be Tirunelveli.

KRISHNAPURAM TEMPLE: The outside look of the temple may not be really stunning. By its exterior appearance, one could easily pass it on as just an other temple. But the real beauty definitely lies inside. The temple deities here share the same name as that of Tirupati Venkateshwara. As such, the presiding deity is known by Venkatajalapathi, with his consorts, Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi.

As soon as you enter the temple, the main hall that leads to the temple sanctum, leaves you amazed. The pillars of the walls carry wonderful work of art that leaves you thinking that this place has something unique to offer and makes you feel good that you did the right thing by visiting the temple and did not shrug it off as a regular one.

What is unique about this wonderful sculptures in the temple, is the sheer size of it. Each of these sculptures is huge in size, almost the size of a human. This adds great life into these sculptures, and as they say, they are truly life-like. Creating these six feet sculptures calls for intricate detailing and the sculptors have truly lived up to this task.

Each of these sculptures carry so much of detailed work that one could easily pass off an entire day just observing the finer aspects of the work. These stone marvels depict a variety of themes. Some of these sculptures relate to war heroes, some of them are manifestations of the Lord and some depict an artist at work.

The astonishing work of art at the entrance hall is just a precursor to what is found inside the main sanctum. Here again, you are loaded with great sight for your eyes, as you come across more life-like sculptures adorning each pillar. In fact, each side of the pillar is decorated with an unique sculpture. As you stay engrossed in this spectacle, you are forced to wonder, how many people must have worked on these sculptures and how long this exercise would have taken.

ADDITIONAL NEAR-BY VISITS: The Nava Tirupati circuit, of nine Vaishanvite temples located on both banks of the river Tamirabarani is not far off from here. So, one could easily start of early morning from Tirunelveli, visit Krishnapuram and then proceed for Nava Tirupati temples. As the name suggests, each of these Nava Tirupati temples is associated with a particular planet and is definitely worth a visit. Some of these temples have their own interesting wonders to offer (more on Nava Tirupati later).

SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: Plan for a day long trip. Start from Tirunelveli, make the first halt at Krishnapuram, then complete the Nava Tirupati circuit by after noon. After lunch on the way, proceed to Tiruchendur. On the way, do not forget to check out Vana Tirupati, the new abode of Lord Venkateshwara. You can find all about Vana Tirupati, located at Punnai Nagar near Nazreth, in my older blog post, http://www.travelwithguru.blogspot.com/2009/12/vana-tirupati-new-abode-of-lord.html

So, push off to check out this great wonder at Krishnapuram.

Ilanji and Ayikudi - Twin Murugan temples around Tenkasi

Through this post, I introduce you to a couple of famous Murugan temples around Tenkasi, located in South Tamil Nadu. One is Ilanji and the other is Ayikudi. These are not extensive temples, being quite small in land area. Nevertheless, they carry their own charm and should not be missed, if you visit Tenkasi or the falls at Courtallam.

REACHING THERE: Both the temples are located around Tenkasi. If you are coming from Tirunelveli or Courtallam, you could visit Ilanji first, then visit the famous Tenkasi Viswanathar temple and could then proceed to Ayikudi. The nearest major town is Tenkasi which also has a rail head. Both the temples are located within 10 Kms range from Tenkasi, but in different directions. So, the best way to combine them is to visit in the order mentioned earlier.

ILANJI KUMARAN TEMPLE: Lord Muruga is known here in the name of Thiruvilanji Kumarar. The temple is located amidst a lush green locale and a mere visit to the temple surrounding is so pleasing. The temple is also rich in historical significance. It is believed that Courtaleeswar temple used to be a vaishnavite temple. Sage Agasthiyar was not allowed to enter the temple as he was a strong devotee of Shiva. The sage is said to have come to Ilanji and performed a penance. Lord Muruga, being the reigning god of the region, appeared before the sage and had asked him to visit the temple the following day, dressed as a vaishnavite.

It is also believed that Sage Agasthiyar also made two lingas out of white sand available in the region, which were then converged into one. This linga is found within the Ilanji Kumaran temple premise under the name Iruvulaga Nayagar (Lord of Two worlds, referring to the combination of two lingas). Since the linga is made out of sand, no abhishekams are performed to the linga. Lordess Parvati is known here as Iruvulaga Eeserkiniyal.

As you move around the temple premise, you can observe several tall trees and wonderful greenery, making it a great visual treat for your eyes. There are also shrines here for Kanni Vinayakar, Suriyan (Sun God) and Suradevar (God who is said to cure people with fever; suram in tamil stands for fever). Major lords of near-by temples like Courtaleswar, Tenkasi Viswanathar and Kuzhalvai Mozhi Ammal also have a shrine at Ilanji. Sage Agasthiyar also has a shrine here. The stala Vriksham (primary tree of existence) is Magizha maram.

AYIKUDI BALASUBRAMANYA TEMPLE: Here, Lord Muruga is known as Balasubramaniar. Here, you find a relatively small idol of Muruga in his younger days and hence aptly titled Bala Subramaniar. The temple architecture is very unlike a typical Murugan temple with the standard Tamil Nadu style of temple tower. Instead, it carries a Kerala style of architecture and even the temple practices have a Kerala touch to it. This is not surprising given its close proximity with the state.

Interestingly, there are five stala Vrikshams for this temple: Arasa maram, Vembu maram (neem), Kariveppilai maram, Madhalai maram and Maavilangu maram. Also, there is a small river besides the temple. The river is called Hanuman Nadhi. It is believed that Hanuman rested here for sometime before his journey to Lanka. Hence, the name for the river.

ADDITIONAL NEAR-BY VISITS: As mentioned earlier, when you visit these two Murugan temples, you pass through Tenkasi and the Viswanathar temple here should not be missed. The massive tower at the entrance is a great spectacle. Interestingly, apart from the exterior and interior sides of the tower being adorned with sculptures, even the sides of the temple tower here bear amazing work of art and one should definitely spend some time enjoying the beauty. The Tenkasi temple is reasonably huge in size with separate shrines for Kasi Viswanathar, Lordess Parvathi (known here as Ulagammai Nachiaar) and Lord Subramanya.

SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: The best way to schedule your trip to Ilanji and Ayikudi is to connect it with other popular and interesting places around. This includes Tenkasi Viswanathar Temple, Courtallam Falls, Courtaleeswar temple and Chitra Sabhai. You could get greater insight about Courtallam and Chitra Sabhai from my old post:

http://travelwithguru.blogspot.com/2010/01/chitra-sabhai-dance-floor-of-lord-shiva.html

Chitra Sabhai - The Dance floor of Lord Shiva

In this post, I introduce you to one of those places in India that illustrate how wonderfully arts flourished in India in the past. The place is however yet to receive its due share of recognition and tourist interest. The place is known as Chitra Sabhai, located in South Tamil Nadu and is one of the five significant locations where Lord Shiva is said to have performed his cosmic dance. The name, Chitra Sabhai, literally means Hall of Paintings. The place is indeed a treasure trove of wonderful mural art.

THE FIVE SABHAIS: Lord Shiva, in the form of Nataraja, is said to have displayed his dance in various locations, of which five of them stand out and are highly revered. In each of these locations (sabhais), he is associated with a particular dance form or Thandavam. The five sabhais are termed: Por sabhai (hall of gold) located at Chidambaram, Rajatha sabhai (hall of Silver) located within Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple, Rathina sabhai (Hall of ruby) located at Tiruvalangadu, Thamira sabhai (Hall of Copper) located within Nelliappar Temple in Tirunelveli and Chitra Sabhai (Hall of Painting) located in Kutralam. The best part about these five locations is the fact that each of these dance floors is decorated in a fashion that perfectly matches its name. Accordingly, Chitra Sabhai is all about wonderful wall paintings.

REACHING THERE: Chitra Sabhai is located at the picturesque location of Kutralam in Tirunelveli District in South Tamil Nadu. Kutralam is a well-known town for its several beautiful falls. Chitra Sabhai is at a walkable distance from the Main falls of Kutralam, although not easily visible. It is on one of the adjacent lanes, but the locals should be able to easily guide you from the Main falls. The best way to reach Kutralam is by road. The nearest major towns are Tenkasi (5 kms away) and Tirunelveli (55 kms away). The nearest major rail head is Tirunelveli, where several trains from Chennai and from the neighbouring state of Kerala stop by. There is also a Tenkasi express from Chennai that stops at Tenkasi.

HISTORY: Chitra Sabhai has a long history. It is believed that once there was an imbalance on earth, as everyone flocked to the Himalayan range in north India to witness the divine sight of Lord Shiva marrying Parvathi. To stabilise the earth, Lord Shiva had requested sage Agastyar to head south. The sage came down to Kutralam but was depressed that he was not able to witness the divine wedding. Understanding sage Agastyar's desire, the Lord along with the Lordess is said to have presented himself before Sage Agastyar at Kutralam and to have performed the Thirupura thandavam along with Lordess Parvathi for the sage. Later on, the ruler of the region is said to have constructed the hall to commemorate the event.

THE PREMISE: From a distance, Chitra Sabhai may not appear to be a great spectacle. The hall has a simple rectangular structure with a wooden entrance and pyramid style of roofing that resembles temples in Kerala. This is not surprising given the proximity of Kutralam to Kerala. The real beauty, however, lies inside.

As you enter the hall, you get transported to a totally different world. There are broadly two compartments within the hall, in the form of two rings. So you can first tour the outer ring and then enter the inner ring. As you move through the two rings you are faced with wonderful mural paintings on the walls.

The paintings are of various sizes and forms. Each painting has its own story to tell. They represent the history of Kutralam, the divine marriage of Lord Shiva and Parvathi, Lord Vishnu in sayanam, form of various other gods and goddesses, scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharatha and the list is endless. One could easily spend an entire day if one gets immersed in the intricacies of these wonderful mural arts in detail.

Paintings are not restricted to the walls inside the hall. As one moves around the Sabhai, one can observe wonderful paintings on the outer walls too, including the doors and windows. Interestingly, the measuring scale that was used to construct the sabhai has also been left behind just outside the sabhai. However, it has been kept in such a way that one can only view it and would not be able to hold it.

HIGHLIGHTS: A couple of paintings that really attracted me strongly were that of Gangalanathar and Natarajar. Gangalanathar is a form of Lord Shiva as a human. The large size solo painting is so very real and soulful that for a moment you forget it is actually a work of art. Natarajar painting depicts the dance of the lord being watched by a huge gathering of people. This painting is a great example of detailed sketching. As one observes closely through the gathering in the painting, one could see that no two people have a similar feature. Each one in the gathering seem to be different from each other and one wonders how many artists were involved in this highest level of artistic exercise.

TICKET AND TIMINGS: Chitra Sabhai is open through out the day from morning to evening with no intermittent breaks. An entry fee of Rs.25 is charged per person. The ticket wala is quite knowledgeable and he can easily double up to be your guide. You can get to know a good amount of history about the region from him, in case you are interested.

ADDITIONAL NEAR-BY VISITS: If you visit Chitra Sabhai, you should not miss out taking a bath or at least a few snaps in front of the wonderful falls, although the falls do dry up quite a bit during off-season. Also, Kutraleeswar temple at the foothill of the Main falls is also a must visit. As you move around inside the temple you would constantly hear the sound of water gushing in the falls. However, you would be able to view the falls from only a single location inside the temple. The Lordess shrine here is also of great significance and is one of the 64 sakthi peedams.

SCHEDULING YOUR TRIP: A Visit to Chitra Sabhai is best combined with a visit to the Tirunelveli Nelliappar Temple and the Tenkasi Viswanathar temple. Both these temples are quite huge and deserve a post on their own. For those interested, one could add Papanasam temple, Agasthiar falls and Manimuthar falls to their schedule.

Do make a visit to Chitra Sabhai. I can assure that you would not be disappointed.